Batting & Backing: Get the Sizing Right for Mail-In Quilting
Preparing your batting and backing correctly is the foundation of a smooth mail-in longarm quilting experience—it ensures your quilt loads perfectly on my...
Maynard Longarm Quilting — Mail-In Process
Batting & Backing: Get the Sizing Right for Mail-In Quilting
Your quilt top is finished—now comes the part that trips up most first-timers: preparing batting and backing that will actually work on a longarm frame. Get the measurements wrong, and your quilter has to trim your top or substitute materials at extra cost. Get them right, and your quilt loads smoothly, quilts evenly, and arrives back to you finished beautifully. This guide walks you through exactly what Carol needs to see when your package arrives in Denver.
Photo by Castorly Stock on PexelsStep by Step
Measure Your Quilt Top Accurately
Don't trust the pattern—measure your actual finished top with a tape measure, both length and width. Fold it in half lengthwise, measure from fold to edge, then multiply by two to double-check. Write down both dimensions. This number is your starting point for everything else.
Calculate Backing Size
Add 8 inches total to both the length and width of your quilt top (that's 4 inches on each side all around). So if your top is 60 inches by 80 inches, your backing needs to be 68 inches by 88 inches. This extra fabric lets Carol clamp the backing to the frame with proper tension and accounts for any shifting during quilting.
Prepare Your Backing Fabric
Press your backing thoroughly to remove wrinkles—Carol's machine will show every crease. If you've pieced the backing, a horizontal seam is ideal (less bulk when the frame advances), but vertical is fine too. Make sure your backing is actually square by folding it with selvedges touching. If your backing is directional or you want a specific side facing out, mark it clearly with a safety pin and note.
Choose Your Batting
Carol stocks Hobbs 80/20 batting and can order other types (cotton, etc.) if you prefer. If you're shipping your own batting, it must also be 8 inches larger overall than your top (4 inches on each side). Quality matters—Carol & Leo will refuse inferior batting and substitute 80/20 at cost. Batting should be free of pet hair, dark threads, and wrinkles.
Cut Batting to Size
If you're providing batting, cut it to the same dimensions as your backing: 8 inches longer and wider than your top. Remove any dark threads that might shadow through lighter fabrics. A light steam or gentle press removes minor wrinkles—don't over-handle it.
Mark the Top of Your Quilt
Pin a small piece of paper or tape to the top edge of your quilt top so Carol knows which direction to load it. This prevents upside-down quilting and ensures your design intention is honored. It's a small detail that saves headaches.
Do NOT Layer or Pin Anything
Keep your quilt top, batting, and backing completely separate. Do not pin, baste, or sew them together. Leo's Bernina Q24 loads each layer individually onto the frame—pre-layering makes her job harder and can damage your quilt.
Fold and Pack Carefully
Fold each layer separately (top, batting, backing) loosely and place them in a clean plastic bag along with your order form. Pack everything in a sturdy box with padding. Include any binding material if you're using the roll-to-front binding method.
Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko on Pexels
Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko on PexelsShipping Specifics
Ship your package via USPS Priority Mail (2-3 days from most of the country, typically $25-45 depending on weight and zone), UPS Ground (3-5 business days, often $30-60), or FedEx Home Delivery (3-5 business days, $30-55). From the West Coast, expect 4-5 days; from the Midwest, 2-3 days; from the East Coast, 1-2 days to Denver, PA 17517. Always insure your package for the full value of your quilt top (typically $200-500 for a finished top). USPS Priority includes up to $100 free insurance; add Declared Value for amounts over that. UPS and FedEx offer insurance add-ons starting at $2.50 per $100 of coverage. Double-box your quilt for extra protection, and keep your receipt and tracking number until your quilt arrives back home.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Measuring the pattern instead of the actual quilt top—patterns are estimates; your top may be 2-3 inches off in either direction.
- Cutting backing too small (less than 4 inches extra on all sides)—Carol & Leo can't clamp it properly, and your top gets trimmed down.
- Sending wrinkled or poorly pressed backing—creases show up in the quilting and are hard to hide.
- Pre-basting or pinning layers together—this prevents the frame from loading correctly and can pucker your quilt.
- Forgetting to mark the top of the quilt—Carol has to guess, and sometimes gets it wrong.
- Sending inferior or thin batting—it won't hold up to the quilting process and may need replacement at your cost.
- Mixing batting and backing sizes—they should both be 8 inches larger overall than your top.
- Not noting special requests (directional backing, rolled binding, etc.)—Carol & Leo can't read your mind from the box.
Tips From Carol & Leo & Leo & Leo
- I've been doing this for years, and the single biggest time-saver is when someone measures their top, writes it down, and tells me upfront. It lets me prep my frame before your package even arrives.
- Press your backing like you mean it. A hot iron and a pressing board make the difference between a quilt that loads smooth and one that fights me every step.
- If you're on a budget, let me buy the batting for you. Shipping batting separately costs almost as much as buying it from me, and I know exactly what works on my Q24.
- That little paper flag marking the top? It's saved me from quilting three quilts upside down. Please don't skip it.
- If your backing is pieced, tell me. I like to know where the seams are so I can plan my quilting path and avoid puckers.
- Batting quality is not the place to save money. Cheap batting sheds, bunches, and shows every thread. Hobbs 80/20 is my standard for a reason.
What NOT to Do
- Do not send batting and backing smaller than 4 inches extra on all sides—Carol & Leo cannot load it on the frame.
- Do not pre-layer, pin, or baste your quilt sandwich—the frame needs to load each layer separately.
- Do not use cheap or thin batting—it will be rejected and replaced at your cost.
- Do not forget to mark which end is the top—guessing wrong ruins the design.
- Do not send wrinkled or unpressed backing—creases show in the finished quilt.
- Do not assume your backing is square—fold and check before cutting.
- Do not skip the insurance—a $400 quilt top deserves protection during transit.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my quilt top is smaller than 60 inches?
The same rule applies: add 8 inches total to both length and width. Even a small 40-inch square needs to be 48 inches square for batting and backing. The extra fabric is about frame mechanics, not quilt size. Leo's Bernina Q24 needs that margin to clamp and tension the layers properly.
Can I send my own batting to save money?
Yes, but only if it's quality batting (Hobbs, Warm & Natural, or similar) and cut to the right size. Cheap batting will be rejected and replaced with Hobbs 80/20 at your cost. If you're unsure, let Carol source it—she knows what works on her machine, and shipping costs often make buying locally cheaper anyway.
My backing is directional. How do I tell Carol which way is up?
Pin a note to the backing fabric itself saying which edge should be the top, or mark it in the order form. Carol & Leo will honor your preference, but she needs to know. Don't assume she'll guess correctly—directional backings can look the same upside down until the quilt is finished.
Do I need to press my batting, or just the backing?
A light steam or gentle press on batting is fine if it has minor wrinkles, but don't overdo it—batting is delicate. Focus your effort on the backing, which shows every crease. If your batting has deep wrinkles, let it air-dry flat for a day or two instead.
What if my backing is pieced? Does it matter where the seam is?
A horizontal seam (running left to right) is ideal because it creates less bulk when the frame advances the quilt. A vertical seam (top to bottom) works too, but horizontal is smoother. Let Carol know in your order form so she can plan her quilting path accordingly.
Can I use a pieced backing that's smaller than 8 inches larger?
No. Even if you've pieced it carefully, Carol needs that full 4-inch margin on all sides to clamp and tension it. If your backing is too small, she'll have to trim your top down, which defeats the purpose of sending it out. Measure twice, cut once.
Should I wash my backing fabric before sending it?
No. Send it clean and pressed, but unwashed. Pre-washing can introduce wrinkles and shrinkage variables that make it harder for Carol to load and tension. If you're worried about dyes bleeding, use a color-catcher sheet in the final rinse before sending, but don't wash the backing itself.
What happens if my batting and backing aren't square?
Carol & Leo will do her best, but unsquare layers can shift during quilting, causing puckers or uneven tension. Fold your backing with selvedges touching to check for square before you mail it. If it's off by more than half an inch, trim it square. It takes five minutes and saves headaches later.
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